The Guide to Los Angeles Restaurants in "City of Gold"
Updated on May 21, 2018
Los Angeles is regarded as one of the top dining destinations in the country, a multicultural mecca for foodies and chefs alike. From Michelin-starred restaurants to humble street carts, Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold has written about it all for more than two decades. The first food writer to win the Pulitzer Prize in criticism, Gold is the subject of a new documentary, City of Gold.
Directed by Laura Gabbert and featuring some of L.A.’s most acclaimed chefs and restaurants, City of Gold takes the audience on a journey to discover Los Angeles through the eyes of one of its foremost cultural writers and a true ambassador of the city. Read on for a guide to L.A. restaurants featured in City of Gold.
Attari Grill
Ayla Sadaghiani, husband Mike, and his mother Parvin Sadaghiani built on the success of their Persian sandwich shop by opening the adjacent Attari Grill, which adds delectable kebabs, seafood dishes, and a seriously compelling, weekend only soup. Kale Pache involves a vivid yellow broth bobbing with lamb parts like tongue, cheek, brain and leg, which are all impeccably cooked and dusted with cinnamon. Squeeze on lime and spoon in torshi, potent house-made pickles, to deliver enough acidity to combat all that rich meat.
1388 Westwood Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90024//} ?>
Bludso's BBQ
One of L.A.’s top barbecue restaurants, Bludso’s opened in Compton in 2008, showcasing Kevin Bludso’s family BBQ traditions that date to his great-great grandfather’s plantation days. Using a multi-smoker attack, Bludso smokes beef brisket with red oak until it’s supple and caramelized at the edges. He also smokes pork ribs, chicken, pork shoulder and house-made links, and slathers savory results in dark, tangy sauce. On weekends, he even busts out big Angus beef ribs. Diners order at the window, in front of a colorful mural of a family barbecue feast that promises “a lil taste of Texas.”
811 South Long Beach Blvd Compton, CA 90221//} ?>
Chengdu Taste
One of L.A.’s spiciest restaurants, Chengdu Taste is L.A.’s Sichuan sweetheart, with lines going out the door at nearly all times of the day. A standout dish is the water boiled fish – a flaky tilapia is bathed in a batch of chili oil with crushed garlic and chili peppers. The twice-cooked pork is also recommended - think of it as the Sichuan version of bacon, but the cut is softer and coated with a layer of hot chili oil. As Gold wrote in his review, “The pepper sauce with the wonton obliterates everything in its path like a mysteriously pleasurable punch in the mouth.”
828 W Valley Rd Alhambra, CA 91803//} ?>
Euro Pane
Located across from Paseo Colorado, Euro Pane is the second location of Campanile alum Sumi Chang’s popular European bakery and cafe. Euro Pane 2.0 features a large patio, giant slice of tree that doubles as a communal table, and a bread "aquarium" filled with rounds, loaves and slabs. Chang’s bread is the key to deluxe sandwiches like meatloaf with caramelized onions, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, tomato and greens; or the vaunted egg salad sandwich, featuring poached eggs, sun-dried tomato paste, mixed greens, chives and a choice of bread, perhaps none better than buttery brioche.
950 E Colorado Blvd. Suite 107 Pasadena, CA 91106//} ?>
Grand Central Market
Renowned as one of America’s great food halls, the landmark Grand Central Market opened in 1917 and has experienced a major renaissance in the past few years with a new generation of vendors opening alongside institutions like China Cafe, Roast To Go and Tacos Tumbras A Tomas. One of the market’s most popular modern spots is Alvin Cailan’s Eggslut, featuring indulgent breakfast sandwiches that come on either buttery brioche buns or flaky biscuits. G&B Coffee is one of the nation’s most progressive coffee peddlers, with a multi-roaster coffee lineup and creative signature beverages. Globally inspired options include Madcapra, farm-to-table falafel from Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson; and Sari Sari Store, Filipino rice bowls by Margarita and Walter Manzke.
317 S. Broadway Los Angeles, CA 90013//} ?>
Guelaguetza Restaurant
Fernando Lopez and Maria Monterrubio opened the acclaimed Oaxacan restaurant, Guelaguetza in 1994. Located in Koreatown near the intersection of Olympic Boulevard and Normandie Avenue, Guelaguetza is much more than a restaurant - it’s a Oaxacan cultural center with a performance stage, Mezcaleria and boutique market. Mr. and Mrs. Lopez are now retired - Guelaguetza is now owned and operated by the next generation, Bricia, Paulina and Fernando Jr. Guelaguetza’s sublime moles, banana leaf-wrapped tamales and unstuffed enchiladas have earned local and national praise, including the prestigious James Beard Classics Award in 2015.
3014 W Olympic Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90006-2516//} ?>
Guerrilla Tacos
Throughout the week, Chef Wes Avila parks his Guerrilla Tacos truck in front of top coffee houses across the city, including Dinosaur Coffee in Silver Lake, Cognoscenti Coffee in Culver City, and various Blue Bottle locations. A farmers market fiend, Avila always gathers the best seasonal ingredients and serves them in tacos, tortas, tostadas, burritos and quesadillas. The only constant is his sweet potato taco with almond chile, crumbled feta, fried corn, and scallions. Beyond that, the menu shifts as inspiration strikes or as Avila travels. A recent trip to Puerto Vallarta resulted in delectable rolled crab tacos with chile guajillo, chipotle crema, and raw tomatillo chile. He’s also riffed on poke after visiting Hawaii and mines the shelves of Armenian markets in his home neighborhood of Glendale.
2000 E. 7TH STREET Los Angeles, CA 90021//} ?>
Jitlada
Discreetly located in a strip mall off Sunset Boulevard, Jitlada is beloved by locals, foodies and celebrities alike. The Southern Thai restaurant was founded by the late chef Suthiporn “Tui” Sungkamee, who died in October 2017, and Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong, the gregarious general manager who stops by every table to check on guests. The huge menu spans 300 regional specialties, from coconut mango salad to Crying Tiger Beef and the fiery “wild” curry with eggplant, green beans, bone-in cuts of catfish and an avalanche of spicy chilies. Everyone has their favorite dishes, but the constant is the steamed New Zealand green mussels. The plump and succulent bivalves are cooked in an exceptionally flavorful lemongrass and basil broth, presented in a metal bowl and served with the house green chili sauce. After you’ve finished the mussels, ladle the remaining broth into bowls and slurp to your heart’s content.
5223 W Sunset Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90027-5709//} ?>
Kiriko Sushi
Ken Namba opened Kiriko on Sawtelle Avenue in 1999, after traveling to South America and Southeast Asia in the ’90s. Namba wanted to do something original, traditional and also modern - similar to sushi they prepare in Downtown Tokyo, which inspired him to open Kiriko. Lunch is a great time to visit - the Deluxe Jou Sushi Moriwase (meaning “assortment”) for $24 is highly recommended. Expect seven pieces of sushi, one cut roll (spicy or regular tuna), miso soup and salad. Lunch can include the usual suspects like tuna and yellowtail, but there’s also the house-smoked salmon, which Namba smokes in a wok over low heat for five hours.
11301 Olympic Blvd #102 Los Angeles, CA 90064//} ?>
Kogi BBQ
The short rib taco served by the Kogi BBQ truck is the culinary mash-up that launched a thousand food trucks. Co-founded by chef Roy Choi, Kogi BBQ pioneered a business model now used across the country, such as featuring multicultural menus and active use of social media. The signature taco is made with double-caramelized Korean barbecue short rib, salsa roja made from Korean and Mexican chiles, cilantro-onion-lime relish and chili-soy Kogi slaw, all served over two crisp, griddled corn tortillas.
Choi has since opened several brick and mortar restaurants, including Commissary at The Line Hotel and A-Frame in Culver City. Fans of the iconic taco can get their fix at Kogi Taqueria in Palms. If you’re hungry for the taco that started it all, follow Kogi BBQ on social media for their next stops. In the documentary, Gold says, "Kogi's food makes you feel plugged into the rhythms of the city just by eating it."
Various Locations Los Angeles, CA 90066//} ?>
Mariscos Jalisco
Beloved as one of L.A.’s best tacos, the pocket-sized tacos de camarón at Mariscos Jalisco attracts fans from near and far, who make the pilgrimage to Raul Ortega’s Boyle Heights food truck, easily identified by its large logos and coastal landscape painting. Tortillas are stuffed with a secret mix of chopped shrimp, vegetables and spices, then fried until they’re crisp. Perfection is served on a Styrofoam plate, topped with slices of buttery avocado and drenched in a bright tomato salsa.
3040 E Olympic Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90023//} ?>
Mexicali Taco & Co.
At their restaurant on Figueroa, Mexicali natives Esdras Ochoa and Javier Fregoso drew inspiration from their childhoods in crafting comforting menu items like the vampiro, a garlic-blasted quesadilla filled with a choice of grilled meat; or the cachetada, a crunchy tostada topped with meat, molten cheese and a drizzle of spicy chipotle aioli. Nachos are also a hit thanks to the waterfall of yellow cheese and punchy salsa de rajas featuring roasted chile poblano, roasted Roma tomatoes, fresh onion and a “killer vinegar mixture.” Aguas frescas like the barley drink, cebada, or tart tamarind lime, help to tame the heat.
702 N. Figueroa Street Los Angeles, CA 90012//} ?>
Meals by Genet
Situated along a block-long stretch of Fairfax Avenue between Olympic Boulevard and Whitworth Drive, Little Ethiopia is a collection of restaurants and businesses that caters to the high concentration of nearby residents of Ethiopian and Eritrean ancestry. Ethiopian cuisine is characterized by spicy vegetable and meat dishes that are eaten by hand using torn pieces of injera (flatbread) to grab the food.
One of Little Ethiopia’s standard bearers is Meals by Genet, which is renowned for Genet Agonafer's doro wot - the traditional braised chicken stew described by Jonathan Gold as the “Ethiopian answer to Oaxacan chicken mole” and “worth every minute of the three days it reportedly takes to prepare." In City of Gold, Agonafer describes the impact that Gold’s review had on her struggling business as she worked to put her son through medical school: "All of a sudden the review came... I could not cook fast enough."
1053 S Fairfax Ave. Los Angeles, CA 90019//} ?>
Pizzeria Mozza
The corner of Melrose and Highland is a mecca for foodies. Home to Pizzeria Mozza, Osteria Mozza and chi SPACCA, this culinary paradise is the brainchild of the superstar trio of chefs Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton and restaurateur Joe Bastianich. It all started with Pizzeria Mozza, which became an instant hit when it opened in November 2006. Widely recognized as one of the best pizzerias in the country, Pizzeria Mozza is known for its seasonal California ingredients and Silverton’s famed crust. Everyone has their favorite dishes, from the fennel sausage pizza to Nancy’s Chopped Salad and the transcendent Butterscotch Budino, a modern classic that was on the opening menu and never left.
641 N. Highland Avenue Los Angeles, CA 90036//} ?>
Trois Mec
Trois Mec is a high-powered collaboration between Chef Ludo Lefebvre and his partners, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (Animal, Son of a Gun, Jon & Vinny's). Trois Mec, which loosely translates to “three guys,” opened in June 2013 in the former Raffallo's Pizza at a strip mall off Highland. The old sign is still hanging outside, offering a low-key hint at the fine dining experience that awaits inside. Trois Mec features a constantly changing five-course tasting menu that’s priced at $110 per person. The highly coveted dinner tickets are released on the first Friday of every month at 10 a.m. for the following month.
In his 2017 101 Best Restaurants guide, Gold ranks Trois Mec at number 7 and says that Lefebvre "works an ecstatic improvisational groove similar to what you might find from the best Parisian bistronomy chefs." Even for a celebrity chef like Lefebvre, Gold's arrival sets off the alarms: "Boom! He's here, panic in the kitchen."
716 N Highland Ave Los Angeles, CA 90038//} ?>